Foodish History: Eggnog 101

There's more to this Christmas drink than its boozy reputation!
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Eggnog for Beginners

Until recently, I’d never had eggnog. It was something I knew about through American books and movies. I knew it was alcoholic––after all, over-indulging on eggnog and saying something you shouldn’t is a classic Christmas rom-com trope!––but that’s about it. Even then, I’d heard so many different stories about the role the alcohol played in the drink that I was totally confused.

But since eggnog features prominently in Tastes Like Home, my short, sweet WWII Christmas story, I decided this would be the year that I tasted eggnog for the first time.

 Firstly, here’s the hook for my story:

Eggnog in teacups

As sweet and smooth as eggnog, this short story adds a Southern hemisphere spin to WWII Christmas romance.

Sydney, Australia,1942: The war in the Pacific takes US Navy Petty Officer Emmett Richmond a long way from home. Even with his government-issued cultural guidelines explaining the quirks of the locals, he’s still out of his depth when he meets Australian shop worker Lizzie Thomas at a Red Cross Dance. Their night of dancing dissolves into months of letter writing, but Lizzie’s family aren’t happy with her growing fondness towards the foreigner. Perhaps he can win them over this Christmas by bringing along a taste of his home, even if the seasons are reversed in this part of the world. But will eggnog save the day or simply cause more trouble? Whether you spend Christmas by the fireplace or at the beach, you will devour this sweet short story in one sitting!

Read this short story at Amazon or my Payhip store.

History of Eggnog

For those of you who, like me, didn’t grow up with eggnog, let me explain the basics. Lots of countries have a version of this drink. In Germany, it’s called eierlikoer and in Mexico it’s called rompope. They are all egg-based, alcohol-spiked punches. In English, the history of the name eggnog is not entirely clear, but most historians agree the drink itself it’s an evolution of ‘posset’, an English drink (made since the middle ages) with milk and beer. I highly commend to you this food history video by Max Millar that provides a good explanation of the history of eggnog up until the mid-18th century. He also talks through an (uncooked) George Washington-era recipe for eggnog.

Cooked vs Uncooked Eggnogs

When I first investigated eggnog, I got confused by the boozy reputation of this drink. Many modern recipes contain only a tablespoon or two of alcohol. Generally speaking that amount of alcohol, when spread over several people, isn’t going to intoxicate anyone. However, I soon discovered, there are two different methods for making eggnog and one requires much, much more alcohol than the other.

Heavily boozed recipes for eggnog usually aren’t cooked. In uncooked eggnogs, raw egg yolks are beaten together with sugar and alcohol, cream and/or milk and spices are mixed in. In uncooked eggnogs, the alcohol plays a preservative function and the recipe requires more to do its job. Because of the high level of alcohol, these eggnogs store well in the fridge and develop their flavour over time. Often, they have (raw) egg white beaten in at the point of serving to give the mixture a lighter, fluffier texture.

I’m not entirely sure when people switched from uncooked eggnog to cooked ones. I suspect uncooked eggnog would have been the only kind made before the mid-twentieth century (when my story is set). In more modern times, we are aware that raw eggs can sometimes harbour bacterial contamination and prefer to cook them. Doing so creates a spiked drinking-custard that simply uses alcohol for flavour. I’ve only experimented with the cooked version but I came across this blog in my research that compares the two processes.

Love and Eggnog in 1942

Both recipes feature in my story. I imagine the recipe Emmett takes to the Red Cross lady in Townsville was the one beloved by Dwight D. Eisenhower. It contains one quart (950ml) of bourbon! But Emmett and Lizzie eventually make a cooked eggnog. I have no proof but I like to think the American Red Cross chose to make the cooked version because they didn’t want to risk the health of the fighting forces they fed…or serve alcohol. 

In a cooked eggnog, the alcohol is just for flavour and can be omitted entirely. If you really object to alcohol then by all means leave it out. But know that all you’ll be left with is thin, nutmeggy custard…Honestly, that doesn’t appeal to me. It doesn’t matter which spirit you choose. Bourbon is classically American. Brandy makes it taste like the traditional accompaniment to plum pudding. Whisky and rum will both do the job nicely.

A word of caution

There are three places where this recipe can go horribly wrong. Firstly, don’t let the mixture boil. Ever it will burn the sugars and curdle the eggs. Secondly, make sure you add the milk to the egg little by little, don’t dump it all in at once. Finally, don’t skip the step where you strain the eggnog or you’ll end up with chunks of scrambled egg in your drink…eeeew!

Please note: I use Australian metric measurements (1 cup = 250ml, 1 Tablespoon = 20ml)

Emmett’s Eggnog Recipe

Serves 4

Ingredients

  • 6 large eggs, yolks only
  • 3/4 cup sugar
  • 2 cups milk
  • Pinch cinnamon
  • Plenty of freshly grated nutmeg 
  • 1  teaspoon vanilla extract 
  • 1 cup thickened (heavy) cream
  • 3-4 tablespoons of bourbon/brandy/whisky/rum

Instructions

  1. In a large bowl, use a whisk (as Emmett and Lizzie would have done) or hand mixer (as I did) to beat egg yolks until they become a little lighter in colour. Add sugar little by little, beating after each addition. Beat at high speed or whisk until fluffy.
  2. Combine the milk, cinnamon, vanilla and some nutmeg in a thick-bottomed saucepan. Slowly heat over a medium element until the milk mixture is steamy hot. Do not let the mixture boil.
  3. Add half the milk into the eggs little by little, whisking continually as you go. This slowly warms the eggs and stops them scrambling. Add egg/milk mix back into the saucepan with the rest of the milk.
  4. Cook the eggnog over a medium heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the mixture begins to thicken slightly and coats the back of a spoon. Do not allow the mixture to boil. 
  5. Remove from heat and stir in the cream and alcohol.
  6. Strain the mixture through a mesh strainer to remove any curdled bits of egg that may have formed. Don’t be tempted to skip this step. Let chill for 1 hour.
  7. Serve with nutmeg freshly grated over the top.

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